Sipping Spotlight: 2 SoCal Natural Wine Shops
Raise a glass, au naturale.
-
CategoryCA Love, Farm + Table, Wine + Beer
-
Written byJennie Nunn
It’s almost that time of year for cozy nights in, festive gatherings with family and friends around the holiday table, and no-fail hostess gifts. Cue the bottles of fine wine. Here, two Southern California natural wine shop owners and wine aficionados offer expert insight and share their favorite wines and gifting ideas.
DIA Natural Wine
“We focus on low intervention and natural wines,” says Marissa Rodriquez, who opened the Studio City, California–based shop with her mother in 2022. “We are equally passionate about how the grapes are farmed as well as how they are produced into the wine in our glass. We work with small distributers with the same focus. We love to find obscure grapes and highlight regions you don’t see everywhere.”
Go-to Gift Ideas
Eladio Pineiro ’22 Albariño ‘Envidia Cochina‘
“Crafted by a small biodynamic producer, it undergoes an impressive aging process on the lees for a minimum of one year. Remarkably, 15-perecent of this wine has been aged on the lees since 2016.”
Domaine de Montbourgeau 2021 L’Etoile “Les 5 Etoiles”
“Wines from this region [Jura, France] are among my all-time favorites, and this particular bottle stands out. It combines zippy freshness with a serious mineral backbone, creating a complex flavor that each sip invites you to revisit.”
Ca’ La Bionda 2023 Valpolicella Classico
“This classic blend of Corvina, Molinara, and Rondinella never fails to impress. Its fresh style makes it incredibly versatile, and our go-to crowd pleaser.”
Biggest misconception about natural wine?
“That all natural wines are ‘funky and cloudy.’ Natural wine encompasses a diverse range of styles and winemaking techniques. We work with several traditional producers who maintain classic wine profiles without resorting to commercial techniques. In fact, we work with one producer who has preserved their cellar methods unchanged since 1844. This diversity illustrates that natural wine can be both approachable and complex.”
Other in-store goods?
“We offer a curated range of goods and pantry items. Just like our wines, we prioritize small-batch, handcrafted products from artisanal makers.”
Hyphen-
How did you get started?
“When I moved to Palm Springs five years ago, the natural wine scene was almost non-existent—a small bar offering just a few bottles for retail was all there was,” says owner and self-proclaimed wine thief, John Libonati. “No wine shop in town specialized in 100% natural or organic wines. I knew I wanted to change that. I aimed to show people that natural wines are a legitimate, diverse, and vibrant category.”
Your aha moment?
“Growing up in an Italian family in New York City, food and wine were always central to my life. It was becoming friends with Isabelle Legeron, founder of the RAW Wine Fair, that truly changed my perspective. With just a few bottles, she transformed my palate and opened my eyes to the reality of modern wine production. Like many consumers, I had no idea how prevalent chemicals were in conventional winemaking. And since wine bottles don’t have ingredient labels, it’s still a well-kept secret—for now.”
Why Hyphen-?
“People always ask why I named it ‘hyphen-.’ I chose it because a hyphen connects things. And that’s exactly what I want to do—connect people with incredible wines they can’t just grab off any store shelf.”
Your wine selections?
“I curate a diverse selection of wines from across the globe, spanning Eastern Europe to South America, with offerings that range from reds, whites, and rosés to skin-contact wines [also known as orange wines.] I especially love working with small distributors, some of whom have portfolios of just ten wines.”
Go-to Gift Ideas
Domaine De la Vieille Julienne Reserve 2010 Châteauneuf-du-Pape
“Something I was incredibly lucky to get my hands on. It is bursting with complexity, and worth every bit of its $275 price tag if you can just sit back, sip slowly, and savor each layer. Meditate with each sip.”
1994 López de Heredia Viña Tondonia Gran Reserva
“The wines from López de Heredia have a bit of a cult following, and for good reason—they can seriously age for the long haul. The family only releases them when they feel the wine is ready, and this one spent a solid 10 years aging before its release. López de Heredia is one of the three oldest Rioja producers in Spain. This bottle is basically history in liquid form.”
John’s Natural Wine Pro Tips
Don’t Be Shy
“Talk to your retailer and ask lots of questions. And if you’re not loving the answers, don’t worry—try another shop. It can take a few trial-and-error attempts to find someone who really gets your palate, but once you do, it’s like wine magic.”
Pay Attention
“If you’re into imported wines, pay attention to the importer. If you keep loving wines from a particular one, chances are you’ll like others in their portfolio. This is super handy when you’re shopping outside your local spot, like when you’re on vacation and staring blankly at unfamiliar wine shop shelves.”
Try Everything
“Many natural wines stay fresh a lot longer than their conventional counterparts. If you try one and aren’t immediately wowed, don’t give up—try decanting it or just pop the cork back in and revisit it in a day or two.”
No Wonder They Call This Place the California Alps
Beautiful lakes, snowy peaks and fields of spring wildflowers.